Diseases and Disorders to Amphibians

Improper sanitation, inadequate environmental parameters (such as temperature and humidity), and/or poor nutrition cause the vast majority of diseases and disorders seen in amphibians. If your pet is exhibiting clinical signs or any type of strange behavior, take it to your veterinarian immediately for a checkup. If your veterinarian does not work on amphibians, ask for a referral to one in your area who does so. By identifying and treating diseases in their early stages, successful treatment and cure is much more obtainable. Below are some of the more common diseases and disorders seen in amphibians. Others do exist, which is why a veterinary diagnosis is essential (Table).

Table Diseases and Disorders of Amphibians

Disease or disorder	Clinical signs	Treatment and comments
Red leg disease	Reddened skin on underside of pet; ulcers on toes; bloating; cloudy eyes	Treat with antibiotics; salt baths; sanitize amphibian’s environment
Edema syndrome	Generalized swelling or bloating of the body; breathing difficulties; weakness	Can occur because of liver disease, skin disease, toxins; also seen in amphibians living in and around distilled water; treat by veterinary removal of fluid with needle and syringe; salt baths; treat underlying cause
Water mold disease	White to brown cotton like lesions on skin; weight loss; lethargy; breathing difficulties	Seen in amphibians housed in water kept below 70°F; diagnose with skin scraping; elevate water temperatures to above 70°F; salt baths
Dehydration	Weight loss; emaciation; lethargy; dull, dark skin; sunken eyes; in coordination	Seen in terrestrial amphibians kept in high temperatures; also in amphibians with skin disease; treat with water and electrolyte baths
Parasitic disease	Skin ulceration and lesions; diarrhea; weight loss; breathing difficulties	Due to poor husbandry and stress; treat with antiparasitic drugs and antibiotics; clean and sanitize enclosure; improve nutrition
Hypothermia	Listlessness; loss of appetite	Maintain proper environmental temperatures
Poisoning	Skin lesions; seizures; skin color change; bloating; breathing difficulties	Sources can include disinfectant residues, vegetation or food contaminated with insecticides; contaminated water; remove inciting cause; support through good nutrition an husbandary
Bacterial skin infection	Nodules on skin; weight loss; skin ulcers	Treat with appropriate antibiotics; improve sanitation
Metabolic bone disease	Deformities of jaws and/ or limbs; limb fractures	Due to imbalance of calcium, phosphorus, and other vitamins and minerals in diet; treat or prevent by feeding or dusting food source with supplement prior to feeding to amphibian

Preventive Health Care to Amphibians

Pet amphibians can benefit from annual veterinary checkups just like other pets. In addition to a physical examination, stool checks and cultures should be performed to ensure that your pet is and remains free of infection or parasitism. Because amphibians can be carriers of zoonotic organisms, special precautions should be taken when handling these pets.
Strict sanitation, environmental control (including temperature and humidity), and high-quality rations must be given top priority in order to prevent disease in amphibians kept as pets. Keep a close eye on your pet’s behavior and movements, eating habits, elimination habits, and physical characteristics. Notify your veterinarian of any changes that you see.

Nutrition of Amphibians

Feeding live food to your frog or salamander is recommended in order to stimulate and promote normal natural feeding behavior. Crickets are the ideal food, as they are inexpensive and easy to obtain. Crickets can be purchased from most pet stores or can be gathered from around your home. Just be sure, however, that all crickets you feed are pesticide free. One day prior to offering them to your pet, feed the crickets tropical fish food or a commercial cricket diet loaded with nutrients to booster their nutritional value.
Terrestrial amphibians can also be fed fruitflies, mealworms, and aphids. Some of the larger toads may even make a meal of baby mice if offered to them! Aquatic amphibians enjoy earthworms, insect larvae, and small fish. Obviously, their food should be fed to them in the water. Feeding your amphibian once a day should be sufficient. Remove any uneaten food from the previous day prior to feeding a fresh meal.
You will soon discover that each frog or salamander will develop its own individualized eating habits. Some will prefer slow-moving prey while others enjoy the thrill of the chase. For instance, toads usually prefer to wait passively for prey to cross their paths, whereas frogs often take a more aggressive approach.

Housing of Amphibians,

Although amphibians are quite adaptive to any environment in which they are placed, do your best to duplicate the environment from which your pet originated. Keep in mind that maintaining a constant environmental temperature and proper humidity within the living quarters are essential to your amphibian’s health and well-being. If in doubt, ask for housing advice from your local pet store that sells amphibians. They will be able to assist you in a design of a functional and fun habitat for your amphibious friend.
The type of setup needed will obviously depend on the type of amphibian owned. For instance, tree frogs will need homes that are taller than those of their ground-loving peers, complete with plenty of tree branches and foliage on which to climb. “Gilled” aquatic amphibians will require an aquarium environment very similar to that of tropical fish, complete with water filtration systems. Terrestrial species may require a terrarium that consists of only a small container of water. For those in between, commercial kits are available that can transform any enclosure into a vivarium containing both aquatic and land areas. All water added to an amphibian’s abode should be filtered, salt-free, and chlorine-free, with a pH somewhere between 6.5 and 8. Salt (as found in “soft” water), chlorine, and an improper pH can be extremely irritating to the sensitive skin of these animals. Aquarium water test kits available at pet stores can be used periodically to ensure the water quality within your pet’s habitat.
Most amphibians are typically housed in glass aquarium-type enclosures fitted with secure tops that prevent escape and allow for adequate ventilation. Acrylic tops containing multiple ventilation holes and secure fasteners are ideal, as these allow for visual pleasure while helping to maintain temperature and humidity within the enclosure. Plastic snap-on lids available at most pet shops can also be used as inexpensive alternatives to acrylic, yet are not quite as effective at regulating internal environment.
The size of the aquarium used will depend on the size of the amphibian in question, as well as the number of them to be kept therein. If you are planning on housing more than one amphibian within a particular enclosure, make certain that they are of the same species and of the same size. Never house frogs and salamanders together and never house a larger amphibian with a smaller one, even if they are of the same species. If you do, you may wake up one morning and find the smaller of the two missing and the larger one with a satisfied smirk on its face.
Sphagnum moss is ideal for lining the floor of your pet’s living quarters. Moss helps contain moisture and humidity within the enclosure, while providing your amphibian with a soft surface and an ideal medium in which to burrow. Even better, placing a 1-inch layer of gravel beneath the moss will allow water and waste to filter through the moss, helping to keep it clean. Adorn the mossy floor of the living space with smooth rocks, simulated wooden branches, and silk plants (these latter two items are easier to clean and maintain than the real things), thereby providing plenty of places to hide or climb.
To prevent accidental dehydration in an unsuspecting frog or salamander, situate the enclosure within your home so as to keep it out of direct sunlight and well away from incandescent heat sources. Fluorescent lighting provides the ideal light source, as it gives off very little heat. Since amphibians are nocturnal, they should be provided with at least 12 hours of darkness each day.
A thermometer and humidity gauge are always standard equipment when housing amphibians. Temperate amphibian species require temperatures ranging between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit, with humidity around 75 to 80 percent. Tropical varieties need temperatures between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with humidity at 85 to 90 percent. If environmental temperature is too high and/or humidity is too low, dehydration becomes a definite threat. On the contrary, if temperatures drop too low, overall activity, including eating, will diminish.
For land portions of a vivarium, a heating pad placed under the tank can help regulate temperatures. Standard aquarium heaters can be used to heat the water within the tank. Do not use heat lamps, as these will quickly dehydrate your pet. Humidity can be maintained by lightly misting the sphagnum moss with water at least two times per week. Don’t overmist, as this can lead to harmful fungal growth.
Clean your pet’s home on a daily basis. [Note: Always wear disposable gloves when performing these duties to protect yourself against diseases that can be spread by these types of pets.] Remove any uneaten food or debris left over from the day before and change the water in the water bowl (if used) daily. Remove soiled moss as needed, and plan on replacing the entire moss bedding every 3 weeks. For those enclosures with water reservoirs, perform a complete water change twice weekly. All wastewater should be siphoned from the bottom in order to remove organic debris that has settled to the bottom of the tank. Thoroughly clean the walls and fixtures inside the enclosure on a monthly basis. Use a mild soap when doing so and be sure to rinse all areas thoroughly, as soap residues can irritate and damage the skin of amphibians.

Restraint of Amphibians

If you want a pet that you can cuddle and carry around with you all day long, an amphibian is probably not the right choice for you. There are three good reasons for this: (1) the skin of frogs and salamanders is a sensitive, delicate organ and can be easily traumatized by repeated handling; (2) certain frogs, toads, and salamanders can release toxins from their skin that can be quite irritating to eyes and mucous membranes; and (3) amphibians can be carriers of bacteria and parasites that can be transmitted to humans through close contact.
If you must pick up your amphibian, don a pair of disposable gloves. Be sure the gloves are free of surface powder, as this can be quite irritating to the sensitive skin of amphibians. For best results, moisten your gloved hands prior to handling. Use cupped hands to gently scoop up your pet. Avoid squeezing it to prevent its escape. That act alone probably causes more injuries to captive amphibians and reptiles than all other sources combined. Because of their slimy skin, amphibians can easily slip out of your hands and fall to the ground, causing serious injury or death. As a result, always keep your hands near a supporting surface just in case you lose your grip.
If transporting your amphibian more than a few yards, use a small container filled with moss as your means of transport. Be sure your container has a lid containing holes to allow for ventilation. If transporting for a prolonged period of time, mist your traveler every 20 minutes to prevent dehydration.

Amphibians

Amphibians have always been highly favored as pets. The word amphibiosmeans “double life,” as these creatures are adapted for life both on land and in water. Adult amphibians will spend most of their time on land, only to return to water to reproduce. The offspring that result will, in turn, remain in their aqueous surroundings until maturity. Amphibians, like reptiles, are cold-blooded, meaning that their internal body temperatures fluctuate with environmental temperatures.
Over 2500 varieties of frogs and toads exist throughout the world. The class Amphibia includes frogs, toads, salamanders, and newts. Frogs and toads are tailless amphibians that possess long, strong hindlimbs. Those that dwell in trees also sport prominent suction disks on the digits of their toes to be used for climbing and clinging. Salamanders and newts, on the other hand, possess short, relatively weak legs that protrude almost perpendicular to their bodies. They also possess a long tail that assists them in their movements. Instead of walking or jumping like frogs, salamanders wiggle and slither toward their intended destinations.
Although the toad is considered a type of frog, they differ in a number of ways. Frogs possess bodies that are more streamlined and elongated than those of toads. The legs of frogs are elongated and ideal for leaping and swimming, whereas those of toads are shorter and used for walking and stalking prey. The skin of the frog is smooth and shiny, in contrast to the thick, dry, and knobby skin of the toad. When laying eggs, frogs will do so in clusters, while toads will lay their eggs in long chains. Finally, frogs come in a wide variety of shapes and colors, including black, various shades of green, and the bright oranges, reds, and yellows of the tropical varieties. Most toads, on the other hand, sport a basic brown color or shades thereof, providing them with the optimum camouflage within their terrestrial surroundings.
Like frogs and toads, salamanders and newts come in all sorts of shapes, sizes, and colors. Over 300 species exist worldwide. The major difference between the salamander and the newt (which is actually a type of salamander) is that the salamander prefers to dwell on land, returning to water only to breed. On the contrary, newts like to spend the majority of their time in aquatic settings. Realize, of course, that when speaking of any type of amphibian, there are always multiple exceptions to the rule.
The top two goals in the life of any amphibian are to (1) find food and (2) keep from drying out. Adult amphibians not only breathe through a set of lungs but also respire through their skin and mucous membranes. For this reason, the outer surfaces of most amphibians are coated with slimy mucus that allows them to retain the skin moisture necessary for proper oxygen exchange. Loss of surface moisture due to dehydration, low humidity, and/or high environmental temperatures can be deadly. This is why amphibians are primarily nocturnal creatures, seeking out food during the nighttime hours and retreating to cool, sheltered areas during the day.
Amphibians can be purchased from pet stores or gathered from their natural habitats. However, before doing the latter, familiarize yourself with local laws and ordinances regarding ownership of native amphibian species. If you accidentally grab hold of an endangered species, you could be faced with a stiff penalty. Remember also that if you purchase or obtain an amphibian that is not native to your region, under no circumstances should you release it back into the wild. Placing such an individual into a foreign habitat could lead to the spread of new diseases and parasites that could potentially wipe out your local ecosystem.