Although amphibians are quite adaptive to any environment in which they are placed, do your best to duplicate the environment from which your pet originated. Keep in mind that maintaining a constant environmental temperature and proper humidity within the living quarters are essential to your amphibian’s health and well-being. If in doubt, ask for housing advice from your local pet store that sells amphibians. They will be able to assist you in a design of a functional and fun habitat for your amphibious friend.
The type of setup needed will obviously depend on the type of amphibian owned. For instance, tree frogs will need homes that are taller than those of their ground-loving peers, complete with plenty of tree branches and foliage on which to climb. “Gilled” aquatic amphibians will require an aquarium environment very similar to that of tropical fish, complete with water filtration systems. Terrestrial species may require a terrarium that consists of only a small container of water. For those in between, commercial kits are available that can transform any enclosure into a vivarium containing both aquatic and land areas. All water added to an amphibian’s abode should be filtered, salt-free, and chlorine-free, with a pH somewhere between 6.5 and 8. Salt (as found in “soft” water), chlorine, and an improper pH can be extremely irritating to the sensitive skin of these animals. Aquarium water test kits available at pet stores can be used periodically to ensure the water quality within your pet’s habitat.
Most amphibians are typically housed in glass aquarium-type enclosures fitted with secure tops that prevent escape and allow for adequate ventilation. Acrylic tops containing multiple ventilation holes and secure fasteners are ideal, as these allow for visual pleasure while helping to maintain temperature and humidity within the enclosure. Plastic snap-on lids available at most pet shops can also be used as inexpensive alternatives to acrylic, yet are not quite as effective at regulating internal environment.
The size of the aquarium used will depend on the size of the amphibian in question, as well as the number of them to be kept therein. If you are planning on housing more than one amphibian within a particular enclosure, make certain that they are of the same species and of the same size. Never house frogs and salamanders together and never house a larger amphibian with a smaller one, even if they are of the same species. If you do, you may wake up one morning and find the smaller of the two missing and the larger one with a satisfied smirk on its face.
Sphagnum moss is ideal for lining the floor of your pet’s living quarters. Moss helps contain moisture and humidity within the enclosure, while providing your amphibian with a soft surface and an ideal medium in which to burrow. Even better, placing a 1-inch layer of gravel beneath the moss will allow water and waste to filter through the moss, helping to keep it clean. Adorn the mossy floor of the living space with smooth rocks, simulated wooden branches, and silk plants (these latter two items are easier to clean and maintain than the real things), thereby providing plenty of places to hide or climb.
To prevent accidental dehydration in an unsuspecting frog or salamander, situate the enclosure within your home so as to keep it out of direct sunlight and well away from incandescent heat sources. Fluorescent lighting provides the ideal light source, as it gives off very little heat. Since amphibians are nocturnal, they should be provided with at least 12 hours of darkness each day.
A thermometer and humidity gauge are always standard equipment when housing amphibians. Temperate amphibian species require temperatures ranging between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit, with humidity around 75 to 80 percent. Tropical varieties need temperatures between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with humidity at 85 to 90 percent. If environmental temperature is too high and/or humidity is too low, dehydration becomes a definite threat. On the contrary, if temperatures drop too low, overall activity, including eating, will diminish.
For land portions of a vivarium, a heating pad placed under the tank can help regulate temperatures. Standard aquarium heaters can be used to heat the water within the tank. Do not use heat lamps, as these will quickly dehydrate your pet. Humidity can be maintained by lightly misting the sphagnum moss with water at least two times per week. Don’t overmist, as this can lead to harmful fungal growth.
Clean your pet’s home on a daily basis. [Note: Always wear disposable gloves when performing these duties to protect yourself against diseases that can be spread by these types of pets.] Remove any uneaten food or debris left over from the day before and change the water in the water bowl (if used) daily. Remove soiled moss as needed, and plan on replacing the entire moss bedding every 3 weeks. For those enclosures with water reservoirs, perform a complete water change twice weekly. All wastewater should be siphoned from the bottom in order to remove organic debris that has settled to the bottom of the tank. Thoroughly clean the walls and fixtures inside the enclosure on a monthly basis. Use a mild soap when doing so and be sure to rinse all areas thoroughly, as soap residues can irritate and damage the skin of amphibians.
The type of setup needed will obviously depend on the type of amphibian owned. For instance, tree frogs will need homes that are taller than those of their ground-loving peers, complete with plenty of tree branches and foliage on which to climb. “Gilled” aquatic amphibians will require an aquarium environment very similar to that of tropical fish, complete with water filtration systems. Terrestrial species may require a terrarium that consists of only a small container of water. For those in between, commercial kits are available that can transform any enclosure into a vivarium containing both aquatic and land areas. All water added to an amphibian’s abode should be filtered, salt-free, and chlorine-free, with a pH somewhere between 6.5 and 8. Salt (as found in “soft” water), chlorine, and an improper pH can be extremely irritating to the sensitive skin of these animals. Aquarium water test kits available at pet stores can be used periodically to ensure the water quality within your pet’s habitat.
Most amphibians are typically housed in glass aquarium-type enclosures fitted with secure tops that prevent escape and allow for adequate ventilation. Acrylic tops containing multiple ventilation holes and secure fasteners are ideal, as these allow for visual pleasure while helping to maintain temperature and humidity within the enclosure. Plastic snap-on lids available at most pet shops can also be used as inexpensive alternatives to acrylic, yet are not quite as effective at regulating internal environment.
The size of the aquarium used will depend on the size of the amphibian in question, as well as the number of them to be kept therein. If you are planning on housing more than one amphibian within a particular enclosure, make certain that they are of the same species and of the same size. Never house frogs and salamanders together and never house a larger amphibian with a smaller one, even if they are of the same species. If you do, you may wake up one morning and find the smaller of the two missing and the larger one with a satisfied smirk on its face.
Sphagnum moss is ideal for lining the floor of your pet’s living quarters. Moss helps contain moisture and humidity within the enclosure, while providing your amphibian with a soft surface and an ideal medium in which to burrow. Even better, placing a 1-inch layer of gravel beneath the moss will allow water and waste to filter through the moss, helping to keep it clean. Adorn the mossy floor of the living space with smooth rocks, simulated wooden branches, and silk plants (these latter two items are easier to clean and maintain than the real things), thereby providing plenty of places to hide or climb.
To prevent accidental dehydration in an unsuspecting frog or salamander, situate the enclosure within your home so as to keep it out of direct sunlight and well away from incandescent heat sources. Fluorescent lighting provides the ideal light source, as it gives off very little heat. Since amphibians are nocturnal, they should be provided with at least 12 hours of darkness each day.
A thermometer and humidity gauge are always standard equipment when housing amphibians. Temperate amphibian species require temperatures ranging between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit, with humidity around 75 to 80 percent. Tropical varieties need temperatures between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with humidity at 85 to 90 percent. If environmental temperature is too high and/or humidity is too low, dehydration becomes a definite threat. On the contrary, if temperatures drop too low, overall activity, including eating, will diminish.
For land portions of a vivarium, a heating pad placed under the tank can help regulate temperatures. Standard aquarium heaters can be used to heat the water within the tank. Do not use heat lamps, as these will quickly dehydrate your pet. Humidity can be maintained by lightly misting the sphagnum moss with water at least two times per week. Don’t overmist, as this can lead to harmful fungal growth.
Clean your pet’s home on a daily basis. [Note: Always wear disposable gloves when performing these duties to protect yourself against diseases that can be spread by these types of pets.] Remove any uneaten food or debris left over from the day before and change the water in the water bowl (if used) daily. Remove soiled moss as needed, and plan on replacing the entire moss bedding every 3 weeks. For those enclosures with water reservoirs, perform a complete water change twice weekly. All wastewater should be siphoned from the bottom in order to remove organic debris that has settled to the bottom of the tank. Thoroughly clean the walls and fixtures inside the enclosure on a monthly basis. Use a mild soap when doing so and be sure to rinse all areas thoroughly, as soap residues can irritate and damage the skin of amphibians.
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