Lizards may be kept in aquariums or similar enclosures with secure, mesh screening over the top to prevent escape. As a rule, most lizards prefer to be housed alone, and may become aggressive toward any new additions. They can be arboreal (living on trees or plants) or terrestrial (living on land) in nature. The decor of the enclosure should reflect your lizard’s personal preference.
Temperature and humidity are two crucial factors when providing a proper artificial environment for any reptile. In the wild, reptiles regulate their body temperatures by changing their body position and/or location in accordance with changes in environmental temperatures. As a result, a lizard might choose to bask in the sun on a branch or rock to raise its body temperature, or to crawl into the shade to lower the same. In captivity, these options should be available. For this reason, the cage you keep your lizard in should provide both warm and cool regions.
An incandescent light bulb with a reflector can be positioned over one end of the cage containing a basking branch or rock. Temperatures in this “hot” region should remain between 93 and 97 degrees Fahrenheit. Commercially available “hot rocks” should not be used within the enclosure, since these can burn reptiles.
Temperature gradients elsewhere within the enclosure should range from 85 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Heating pads can be placed beneath selected sections of the aquarium to achieve these temperature gradients. Ceramic heating elements are most effective as well. Aquarium thermometers should be placed at multiple locations within the cage to monitor environmental temperatures throughout.
A humidity gauge should also be centrally located within your lizard’s enclosure, away from light and heat sources. Relative humidity should be maintained above 50 percent for most arboreal lizards (including iguanas), and 20 to 40 percent for terrestrial species, such as the leopard gecko. High levels of humidity necessitate good ventilation within the enclosure to prevent bacterial and mold growth.
Although incandescent lighting may provide a source of heat and light, it does not supply the full spectrum of light that lizards require to maintain both their mental and physical health. The ultraviolet rays of the sun are required for the synthesis of vitamin D3in the skin of lizards. If not enough of vitamin D3is synthesized, nutritional bone disease can result. Most lizards kept in captivity are deprived of direct exposure to natural sunlight, and require an artificial source of “sunlight.” Contrary to popular belief, placing your pet’s enclosure next to a sunny window is not sufficient, since glass can interfere with the effective transmission and absorption of the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Instead, an unfiltered black light fluorescent tube should be mounted approximately 2 feet above your reptile’s basking site to provide these much needed rays. These tubes are readily available at most pet stores. [Note: These are different from black light blue tubes, which are of little value and should not be used. Approximately 10 hours of this light should be provided for your lizard on a daily basis. Be sure no glass or plastic comes between the light source and the reptile (mesh screen is okay).] To ensure maximum effectiveness, black lights should be replaced every 6 months.
Butcher-block paper, which is inexpensive and easy to change, can be used to line the floor of your lizard’s home. If used, it should be changed daily. As an alternative, artificial turf or indoor/outdoor carpeting can be used as well. Keep two or three clean pieces available as backups to quickly replace soiled ones. Excretions should be picked up daily, and the flooring should be changed and cleaned at least three times a week. A quaternary ammonium compound or chlorhexidine diluted 1:10 with water is an ideal disinfectant for cleaning and soaking soiled pieces of flooring. If you have only one piece to work with, be sure to rinse and dry it completely before placing it back into the cage. Failure to do so could predispose your reptile to skin irritation and disease.
For arboreal species, provide plenty of branches of different types and sizes on which your lizard can climb. Smooth rock formations, hollow logs, or other areas in which your lizard can hide should be placed at different temperature locations within the enclosure.
Some lizards enjoy substrate into which they can burrow. Pelleted, recycled newspaper (available at most pet stores) or commercially available substrate designed for reptiles serves this function quite nicely.
Another item needed for your lizard’s home is a water bowl with easy access. The bowl should be large enough to hold your lizard and contain a level of water that would cover approximately two-thirds of its body. Use filtered water as a water source to prevent chlorine irritation to your pet’s skin. Change the water and clean the bowl on a daily basis. Note that chameleons will rarely drink water from a bowl. They will, however, lick up water droplets from the sides of the enclosure. As a result, keep the sides of the cage well misted throughout the day. Even better (and less laborintensive), consider installing a drip system (available commercially) to provide a constant source of water to your finicky pet. To maintain proper sanitation, give your lizard’s cage flooring, walls, and contents a thorough cleaning and disinfecting at least twice monthly.
Temperature and humidity are two crucial factors when providing a proper artificial environment for any reptile. In the wild, reptiles regulate their body temperatures by changing their body position and/or location in accordance with changes in environmental temperatures. As a result, a lizard might choose to bask in the sun on a branch or rock to raise its body temperature, or to crawl into the shade to lower the same. In captivity, these options should be available. For this reason, the cage you keep your lizard in should provide both warm and cool regions.
An incandescent light bulb with a reflector can be positioned over one end of the cage containing a basking branch or rock. Temperatures in this “hot” region should remain between 93 and 97 degrees Fahrenheit. Commercially available “hot rocks” should not be used within the enclosure, since these can burn reptiles.
Temperature gradients elsewhere within the enclosure should range from 85 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Heating pads can be placed beneath selected sections of the aquarium to achieve these temperature gradients. Ceramic heating elements are most effective as well. Aquarium thermometers should be placed at multiple locations within the cage to monitor environmental temperatures throughout.
A humidity gauge should also be centrally located within your lizard’s enclosure, away from light and heat sources. Relative humidity should be maintained above 50 percent for most arboreal lizards (including iguanas), and 20 to 40 percent for terrestrial species, such as the leopard gecko. High levels of humidity necessitate good ventilation within the enclosure to prevent bacterial and mold growth.
Although incandescent lighting may provide a source of heat and light, it does not supply the full spectrum of light that lizards require to maintain both their mental and physical health. The ultraviolet rays of the sun are required for the synthesis of vitamin D3in the skin of lizards. If not enough of vitamin D3is synthesized, nutritional bone disease can result. Most lizards kept in captivity are deprived of direct exposure to natural sunlight, and require an artificial source of “sunlight.” Contrary to popular belief, placing your pet’s enclosure next to a sunny window is not sufficient, since glass can interfere with the effective transmission and absorption of the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Instead, an unfiltered black light fluorescent tube should be mounted approximately 2 feet above your reptile’s basking site to provide these much needed rays. These tubes are readily available at most pet stores. [Note: These are different from black light blue tubes, which are of little value and should not be used. Approximately 10 hours of this light should be provided for your lizard on a daily basis. Be sure no glass or plastic comes between the light source and the reptile (mesh screen is okay).] To ensure maximum effectiveness, black lights should be replaced every 6 months.
Butcher-block paper, which is inexpensive and easy to change, can be used to line the floor of your lizard’s home. If used, it should be changed daily. As an alternative, artificial turf or indoor/outdoor carpeting can be used as well. Keep two or three clean pieces available as backups to quickly replace soiled ones. Excretions should be picked up daily, and the flooring should be changed and cleaned at least three times a week. A quaternary ammonium compound or chlorhexidine diluted 1:10 with water is an ideal disinfectant for cleaning and soaking soiled pieces of flooring. If you have only one piece to work with, be sure to rinse and dry it completely before placing it back into the cage. Failure to do so could predispose your reptile to skin irritation and disease.
For arboreal species, provide plenty of branches of different types and sizes on which your lizard can climb. Smooth rock formations, hollow logs, or other areas in which your lizard can hide should be placed at different temperature locations within the enclosure.
Some lizards enjoy substrate into which they can burrow. Pelleted, recycled newspaper (available at most pet stores) or commercially available substrate designed for reptiles serves this function quite nicely.
Another item needed for your lizard’s home is a water bowl with easy access. The bowl should be large enough to hold your lizard and contain a level of water that would cover approximately two-thirds of its body. Use filtered water as a water source to prevent chlorine irritation to your pet’s skin. Change the water and clean the bowl on a daily basis. Note that chameleons will rarely drink water from a bowl. They will, however, lick up water droplets from the sides of the enclosure. As a result, keep the sides of the cage well misted throughout the day. Even better (and less laborintensive), consider installing a drip system (available commercially) to provide a constant source of water to your finicky pet. To maintain proper sanitation, give your lizard’s cage flooring, walls, and contents a thorough cleaning and disinfecting at least twice monthly.
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