Turtles can be kept in 10 to 20 gallon aquariums or other similar enclosures. Semi aquatic turtles require both water to swim in and land to crawl on within their artificial environment. Both regions need to be easily accessible. Large, round gravel can be used to create the “land” portion of the environment. Sand, aquarium gravel, or wood chips should not be used, as these may be ingested by a bored pet. A hiding spot should also be provided at one end of the land mass. Aquatic turtles obviously need less land and more water in which to swim and feed. It needn’t be deep, just enough for the turtle to be able to submerge itself. The only water that terrestrial turtles need is that provided within a shallow water dish.
All water should be filtered prior to adding to the vivarium to avoid the hazards of contamination. In addition, plan on complete water changes twice per week. A filtration system can be installed to help keep the water clean; however, this does not replace essential twice weekly water changes. Environmental temperature, including water temperature, should be kept between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit at all times (this includes any new water added). Abrupt changes in water temperature can be harmful to turtles. Also, if environmental temperatures fall too low, most turtles will go off feed and could become malnourished. As a result, be sure to use an aquarium thermometer to help monitor this important parameter.
Smooth rocks or branches suitable for climbing and basking should be provided for both aquatic and semi aquatic turtles. Floating plat forms are appealing to these pets as well. Plenty of hiding places should be offered, and situated at various locations within the vivarium or terrarium. Enclosures, including fixtures, should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected weekly using soap and water or a 1:10 dilution of chlorhexidine. After cleaning, rinse thoroughly to be sure no chemical residues are left that could be harmful to your turtle.
Turtles, like other reptiles, regulate body temperature according to physiological needs. As a result, a simple setup including an incandescent light bulb and reflector situated over a basking site within the terrarium should be used to create a “hot spot” of around 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Also, a heating pad can be placed beneath one section of the enclosure to create a thermal gradient within the enclosure. Ther- mometers can be placed in strategic locations within the enclosure to monitor temperatures.
Chelonians, like their lizard cousins, also require a source of ultraviolet light in order to synthesize vitamin D within their bodies, thereby preventing nutritionally related bone disease (see section on care of lizards).
All water should be filtered prior to adding to the vivarium to avoid the hazards of contamination. In addition, plan on complete water changes twice per week. A filtration system can be installed to help keep the water clean; however, this does not replace essential twice weekly water changes. Environmental temperature, including water temperature, should be kept between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit at all times (this includes any new water added). Abrupt changes in water temperature can be harmful to turtles. Also, if environmental temperatures fall too low, most turtles will go off feed and could become malnourished. As a result, be sure to use an aquarium thermometer to help monitor this important parameter.
Smooth rocks or branches suitable for climbing and basking should be provided for both aquatic and semi aquatic turtles. Floating plat forms are appealing to these pets as well. Plenty of hiding places should be offered, and situated at various locations within the vivarium or terrarium. Enclosures, including fixtures, should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected weekly using soap and water or a 1:10 dilution of chlorhexidine. After cleaning, rinse thoroughly to be sure no chemical residues are left that could be harmful to your turtle.
Turtles, like other reptiles, regulate body temperature according to physiological needs. As a result, a simple setup including an incandescent light bulb and reflector situated over a basking site within the terrarium should be used to create a “hot spot” of around 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Also, a heating pad can be placed beneath one section of the enclosure to create a thermal gradient within the enclosure. Ther- mometers can be placed in strategic locations within the enclosure to monitor temperatures.
Chelonians, like their lizard cousins, also require a source of ultraviolet light in order to synthesize vitamin D within their bodies, thereby preventing nutritionally related bone disease (see section on care of lizards).
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